Haute couture frequently recognizes dynamic design team Viktor & Rolf for their innovative concepts. This season, they didn’t just think outside the box, they expanded the box both physically and metaphorically.
Acknowledgedly named “Haute Absurdism,” the Fall/Winter 2024 collection draws inspiration from the brand’s rich heritage of outrageous design as well as the creative movement. Inspired by their groundbreaking F/W 1998 “Atomic Bomb” collection, as shown on the official show invitation, Viktor and Rolf Haute Couture FW24 in particular. The silhouette has been increasingly abstract throughout the last 26 years of evolution.
Three-dimensional, abstract geometric forms like cubes, triangles, and spheres—building blocks derived from constructivism and cubism as well as a kid’s block set—intersect the human body. A new, abstracted, human “body” appears, and this collection’s clothing adjusts to fit it. Novel and abstract designs, such as those for collars, shoulder pads, necklines, and panniers, are influenced by geometric shapes.
A distinctly delighted VIP crowd watched couture ensembles paraded past models with morphing cubic and rectangular formations. One of the initial designs had rectangular shoulders and simple fabric, giving the impression that the figure had been wrapped in couture for a high-end delivery or wrapped as a present. She completed the ensemble with a crimson, hybrid dog collar around her neck, which gave it an extra whimsical touch.
In other places, the angular forms hidden behind clothing parodied the idea of inflexible shoulder pads while mockingly evoking the glitzy era of Hollywood. The standout piece was a clashing costume that included a miniskirt with pastel stripes, a blue houndstooth blouse, and a Bordeaux embroidered jacket with enormous “shoulder pads” that towered over the model’s forehead. It was impressive to see.
Once again, Viktor & Rolf produced a captivating and enjoyable presentation that went beyond conventional fashion. The designs for this season included comments on both the ridiculousness of couture and fashion as a whole, in addition to clothing. With each thread, Viktor & Rolf have once again demonstrated their mastery of high fashion architecture by dismantling and reconstructing the box.
The artwork is strong and striking, the fabrics are noble, and the color palette is richer and more vibrant than before.